Wednesday, November 26, 2008

The Shopping Experience at Beijing's Silk Market

I always look forward to shopping when I'm outside the country, but this shopping experience at Beijing's Silk Market or Xiushiu Market is totally different, if not the most unpleasant. Don't get me wrong, there are loads to be had, mostly stuff that you don't need, and although I am quite adept at the negotiation, their crazy pricing somehow makes me feel like I walked away not knowing if I got the best price.

The Silk Market is a 6-storey shopping mall housed in a 35,000 square meter complex. What used to be a traditional market style complex has been demolished, and all tenants are now in a modern building, with rent ranging from 4000 Yuan (P28K) to 40, 000 (P280K,reportedly on the coveted ground floor). The basement is littered with luggage, bags and shoes,while the ground up to the 3rd floor has winter clothes, sports jackets, t-shirts,pants, kid's clothes, women's clothes. The upper floors house the silk shops, jewelry, watches, various accessories and the last top floors have the calligraphy,other Chinese souvenirs, and electronics.

Before



The New Silk Market








Originally I wanted to buy a new pair of badminton shoes, but the ubiquitous counterfeit goods scared me away. So I accompanied a colleague who was set on buying a pair of luggage for her US trip next year. We went to a young woman's stall selling (fake) Samsonite and Swiss Gear luggage. The price for a midsized luggage is 550 Yuan, and a small one is at 250.

"No," my friend says.
"Lady, how much you want?"
I was surprised at this, but later found out that this was their standard spiel. How weird to be asked how much the product is worth to the consumer!
"My price for the big size is 250 and the small one for 150."
"Ridiculous. Why are you asking for such a ridiculous price? Crazy!"

This went on back and forth, with my friend not budging. She is asking for a price of P1750 for a mid-sized Samsonite luggage in a grey, houndstooth design, and a price of P1050 for the weekender luggage. I watch, since my cheap luggage from Taiwan, which was half price at Tesco's was worth P1500, and the luggage I brought in the US for a 2-week trip, bought in Robinson's was worth P2000. And that was very cheap.
Later on, the Chinese lady's voice sounds louder, and she basically shoos my friend away, in spite my friend's offer to buy 3 luggages.
"You crazy, you go to your friend's shop."
This was because my office mate tells the lady that she can get the price that she wants in another stall. She is lying of course, because this is our first stop.
I was only a bit shocked because I know the prices of the luggage, but I was also wondering how low the prices can go. Remember that this was our first stop. The Chinese girl kept saying that her luggage quality is good. As if she was saying, "How dare you! My products are of good quality, even if they are fake!"


Unperturbed, this office mate looks for the next stall to negotiate with, and already I feel tired. They kept calling to me, hissing

"You want Louis Vuitton?"
, pointing to my bag.
"C'mon I will show you the same. Very good quality."
At first I answer
"No, this is a real one." I thought that would shut them up. But they always have an answer.

"I give you a really nice one. Quality the same! Price lower!"
"No," I shake my head.
"You want to have another one?".
"No, thanks"
"How about for your friend?"

Honestly, I did not see that coming.


While my friend was busy negotiating for her luggage set, finally settling for a Swiss Gear (imitation of the Swiss Army/Victorinux brand), I notice how they entrapped her into their stall, cornered her with four of them, and kept touching her arm, pleading with her. I slide away, but I could still hear their pleas.

"Lady, why are you so difficult?
"Are you a businesswoman? Why do you make it so hard for me?

"I sold this to a White tourist for 800!"


Finally they come to an agreement of 600 Yuan for 3 luggages. P1225 for the small luggage and P1750 for the midsized one. Add the hustling and the harassment: she with her winter clothes on, in a heated stall, in a heated argument,alone and cornered by four merchants, block-balled and on a standstill for an hour or so. Priceless! I found it unbelievable. I was at a distance because I warned her, but my friend obviously wanted to engage. The funny thing about all this is she did not wise up to the Chinese who plus-sold her a Louis Vuitton purple Vernis wallet worth P700!

While doing this post-sales transaction, one attractive young Chinese was eyeing me and in a hush hush tone was inviting me, as if to her secret compartment where all the good stuff is. She educated me on the fake A-grade purse, and the triple A grade fake. "See, " she tells me, " you can see the difference in the color and the texture. I touch it too, and I seem to agree. I almost wanted to buy, almost believing it is just like the real thing, you know what I mean? They were that good!


After that experience my friend didn't want to shop anymore. Pinawisan na sya eh. And I told her I still want to shop, and she can go home if she wanted to. I was always confident I can find my way back to the hotel, whether via the MRT or via taxi, but this girl would not want to come home alone. So we shopped some more. Tshirts (Billabong, Abercrombie knock-offs) were originally priced at 300 Yuan. We bargained and got it for 40 Yuan.

This is their spiel:

"Originally, for the tourists (the caucasians, she means) I would price this at 300 RMB. Then if you bargain, this would be my price (she then inputs the 150 price in her calculator). But with you, since I like you, you say you do not know the price of the original item and would not know what price to ask, I will sell this to you for 100. Ok?"





Then if you stood your ground, and would stick to your price, then walk away if she would not budge, she will give it to you.

However, I could not get over the fact that they would grab, not just touch, but grab your arm and tell you, "You need this!" I almost slapped a guy who grabbed my arm, egging me on to buy t-shirts. Acting on reflex, I yank his arm off of me and tell him, "Don't touch me!". While I was at the silk floor, an American guy was squeezing out of a stall grabbing onto something. His wife was stuck within the confines of the sellers of that stall. He says, "Let go of my wife!"
both in jest and incredulity. The wife was laughing. It was both enjoyable and unpleasant. My friend who bought a silk comforter, with 2 bags on both arms, was unable to move because they were holding on to him, so he used his other bodily part, his rounded tummy to nudge them to let him go.


My guy officemates had a lesson or two too. When the first guy bought an oversized man- luggage, he got it for 300 Yuan. When 2 other guys from our group went to the same stall, they got it for 250. They were negotiating for a shirt in front of me, a Paul Smith shirt, and a Miss Sixty shirt (similar to the one I bought), they were given a price of 100 Yuan and they were ready to buy. I signaled that I got it for 40, and they got it too. Otherwise, these guys would have bought their girlfriends and kids an overpriced T-shirt.


But still, I wonder if I could get it at 30 Yuan(P200 pesos), because prices in Greenhills are at P300-P350 for a shirt. My pink cardigan was bought for 100 Yuan, with its original tag of 987 (price for American tourists). Now who wants to haggle like that? How long til you reach a negotiation with one tenth of the original price? Two of my officemates, women who are known shoppers, gave up and said they would rather shop at 168. Frankly, I would rather spend the rest of my time reading a book. (On hindsight, I spent less because of the money spent shopping for this trip, hehe).

Monday, November 24, 2008

Thoughts on ChangChen




Why make so many men suffer lifting and transferring blocks of rocks to form the wall? I read that it is to keep off foreigners (yes Sony, by foreigners I mean invaders) from the land, who are now the main visitors on this Great Wall. It took 2 dynasties and thousands of men.

Which also begs the question as to why The Egyptian pyramids were also built. Our conclusion is that at least the servants of the emperor, or the empresses were not required to die alongside their masters, even while they were still healthy and very much alive.

I do not have a third eye, but for once thought about talking to ghosts within these walls who could tell me their story. China is part of my lineage too, as it is with every Filipino, who have a third of their blood from the Chinese.

Peking Roast Duck

As you know, part of my job is tasting food everyday, and I looked forward to the Chinese food in Beijing, which is among my favorite food, if prepared properly. The whole experience in Beijing is a mix of elation and so-so taste, highlighted by the authentic Peking (the old name of Beijing which literally means capital) roast duck. I consulted my 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, and in Beijing, they list 4 things:

1. Family Restaurant for the Peking Duck Experience
2. The Forbidden City
3. The Great Wall
4. Ming Tomb, of the Imperial Tombs
5. Hutong

Checked all of these with the 4 days/3 nights visit, and I shall treasure the memories forever. Especially the savory ones. Hehe.


For the most expensive Peking Duck, go to Quanjude (their business is vertically integrated, starting from growing their own ducks, which are lean and not too fatty, to selling these ducks in vacuum-packed plastic bags in supermarkets and souvenir shops). We go to LiQun Roast Duck Restaurant, which is located in an old Hutong (narrow alleys) district, which is a 30-minute walk from the Tiananmen square. The Liqun family restaurant boasts of a traditional cooking method, which is by hanging the roast ducks, using fruit wood for roasting.





The Chinese Style meal, which is good for 3 or 4 people includes the following:
-traditional roast duck
-pancake
-cucumber
-spring onion and sauce

Appetizer includes
-egg rolls stuffed with minced chicken, chive, carrot
shredded cucumber, green pepper and parsley with salt
lotus roots and hawthorn

Meal costs 388 RMB or approximately P2700







The restaurant is so old that smoking is prohibited inside the restaurant. Each room has been converted into a kitchen where the duck is cooked and sliced by hand. Tables are located in what used to be the main living room, and crammed in 4 tables of 4-6 people are Caucasian tourists. Dining is within a maximum of 1.5 hours only to ensure turnover is fast. Orders are pre-called since cooking the duck takes at least 20minutes. The duck is scrumptious, golden brown, crisp, and lean. The key to enjoying the peking duck is to eat it while it's hot and the skin is crispy. Each duck serves 2 plates, and that night, we finished up 4 ducks! Accompanied by the Beijing Baijou, or the hot rice wine. Soup is served last, but not til they serve up the bones and bits from the ducks fried with salt and pepper.

What can I say? Yummy. Going back, we did not walk and had to take the Hutong ride (rickshaw) back to the train station.

Book Buy: Eat, Pray, Love

If there's one book for you this year, buy this one. EAT, PRAY, LOVE by Elizabeth Gilbert. A chick book, yes , (In fact I can even see this as a movie), but one that resonates so much to me.

The Forbidden City

It's winter in Beijing, and the trees are barren, leafless. It's brown all around. The grass is brown; the trees, the mountains seem lifeless, but awake. Winter has not been my favorite season, unlike fall where there is so much color, and spring when the flowers are blossoming. But winter for all its cold crisp air can be welcoming, if only for the change in temperature. It is especially good in the morning with the sun streaming down your skin, warming up your bones which are covered from head to foot in layers of coat, sweater, thermal underwear,stockings, socks and boots.








We head off to the Forbidden City, and I remember The Last Emperor (1987 Oscar Best Picture), and the Gong-Li, Jet Li movies of recent. We spend half a day on this city. I could have stayed longer, but they close at 4:30. I walked the Forbidden City for 3 hours, and indeed, I was bitin. The walls, the intricate plastered ceilings and columns, the doors, the palaces where the 108 concubines lived, the gardens, they tell so many stories. In fact, it's enough to conjure one's own 14th century concubine (not emperor, or an empress) story.







The Real Olympic Village

About 30 minutes and around 4 line transfers from the Beijing Railway Station, we trek to Olympic Village where the Bird's Nest and The Cube, modern architecture courtesy of the Beijing 2008 Olympics, are located. We were neither aware nor prepared for the negative 5 degree Celsius temperature, but we posed anyway, awed by it all.












Beijing is so first world, but in the midst of it all, I keep looking for the fashion forward women and men. They are nowhere in sight. I kept the digital camera handy, for that great fall street fashion statement, but so much for waiting, this ain't Tokyo.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Kulinarya Tagala Part 4: Saving the Best for Last..Ugu Bigyan



In the heat of the noon sun, we found our way to catch a late lunch at Ugu's. Augusto Bigyan, or Ugu'house is a testament to his work as a potter, his food a revelation of his true nature as a cook. His garden is towered over many huts (bahay kubo) where guests can partake of breakfast or lunch meals. For a fee of P500 per head, this is quite a steal.


































KULAWO RECIPE


Ingredients

-Sibuyas
-Garlic
-Asin
-puso ng saging
-cane vinegar
-ground pepper


1. Ihawin ang niyog
2. Ilagay ang uling sa niyog
3. Ihalo
4. Gatain using cane vinegar. Salain ang gata
5. Haluin lahat ng sangkap, ihuli ang banana blossom
6. Pwede itong appetizer, main dish or salad.






For inquiries on KULINARYA TAGALA, please contact our tour guide, and proponent of the culinary tour, Ms. Tina Decal
Tel:632-728-1180/8234
Mobile:0927-563-0989
kulinarya_tagala@yahoo.com.ph

Usapang Bata

We interrupt regular blogposting for this message which certainly made my day. My brother in law (BIL) shares woes of fatherhood and tells tales of the kid's progress in school.

"...Pero nakakatuwa dahil nagdevelop na sila ng study habits. Tsaka ang sarap i-witness nung progress nila. Kay Ysabel, so far so good. Ganda nung start niya kaya confident kami na okay siya sa school. Wag lang mag-boyfriend kaagad... Huwag rin lang malulong sa pagsasayaw. Saan ba kayo nakarinig ng bata na ang pangpatulog ay Don’t Cha ng Pussycat Dolls.

Si Kuya, makulit lang talaga ngayon pero nagsu-surface na yung potential niya sa Communication Arts – English at Mathematics. Nagpapakita na rin ng interest sa Science. Sa Filipino? Waaaaaaaaaaaaah!!! Toture…kaya niyang mag-spell, este mag-baybay pala. Pero pahirap kasi kada salita na babaybayin niya eh tatanungin niya kung ano yung ibig sabihin sabay kwento. "

Halimbawa:



Papa : PALENGKE
Miguel : PA-LENG-KE. Papa, what’s a palengke?
Papa : Palengke is the same as the word Market
Miguel : Can we go to the market kasi I want to buy some food?



Papa : OSO
Miguel : O-SO. Papa, what’s an oso?
Papa : OSO = BEAR
Miguel : Di ba a bear is a wild animal and it’s dangerous? Can we go to the zoo coz I want to see a bear?



Papa : UNANO
Miguel : U-NA-NO. Papa, what’s an unano?
Papa : UNANO is Filipino for a small man?
Miguel : Papa…is Tito Vic an unano? (Si Tito Vic kasamahan namin sa bahay na di katangkaran)
Papa : Shhhhhhhhhhhhh…baka marinig ka ni Tito Vic. Sabay bulong na “Yes, he is an unano”…Hehehe

Kulinarya Tagala Part 3 of 4: Kamayan sa Palaisdaan



To burn off our heavy lunch, we take a heritage tour of the De Gala -Rodriguez ancestral house in Quezon. Built in 1929, the house boasts of 2 spacious living rooms and formal dining rooms which were especially built to house parties and sosyalan, akin to the lavish parties by Imelda Marcos when we visited her Paoay vacation home (her house is more ostentatious, with 32 airconditioning units!). This reinforced my belief that it is hard to maintain such a huge house- imagine the cost on those curtains, not to mention the electricity!

On this property, facing the pool, we were treated to a cooking demo of Higote or their version of bopis. This "barrio cooking" is widespread, all over the nation because we Filipinos cook our pig for the main dishes, and the leftover parts are then sliced and diced for recipes, like bopis, so there is no waste.














HIGOTE- Quezon's Bopis

-Igisa ang bawang at sibuyas
-Isama ang red bellpepper
-Ihalo ang tinadtad ng lamanloob ng baboy (baga, pigi) na nilaga at hinugasan ng tatlong beses
-Lagyan ng salt and pepper
-Samahan ng achuete (anato seed)
-Dagdagan ng soy sauce, sukang ilocos at siling haba



Quezon is lined with coconut trees in abundance, and among its products are virgin coconut oil and lambanog. We see this as we make our way to Graceland, a nice accommodation in Quezon, where we were staying. With its jogging path around a fishing lake, Mt. Banahaw as a backdrop against an infinity pool, and where the clouds envelope the highest peak of the resort, it is a haven. Tracy and I walked briskly for an hour around the lake while Chef Martin and Peachy jogged.







Three hours later everyone gets into the coaster and we head off to Kamayan sa Palaisdaan, famous for making its way to Andrew Zimmern's EXTREME FOOD leg here in the Philippines. There was nothing exotic about the food- this is what we eat when we are at the beach on a hot, lazy summer.





















































































Well nothing exotic or new, except for this dessert, which they call pilipit because it used to take the shape of infinity. But I guess due to the price increase of flour, it just took on the shape of a doughnut. It is a secret recipe, but we guessed its sticky rice and squash combination, with coconut (of course!), battered and fried with coco jam as its caramelly, chocolate-y topping. It is sooo good.


To cap the evening,we partake of the tanggero rite in Quezon. I was surprised at the taste of this local vodka. I took a mental note to buy lots for Christmas gifts, while we say:

"Na- ay po..."
"Pakinabangan po.."





Kulinarya Tagala Part 2 of 4 : San Pablo's El Mare and Kusina Salud




So on a beautiful Thursday, when the skies are blue and the sun is out, we set out to San Pablo. By 8:30 AM, we are having breakfast at Kafe El Mare. The menu is goto with tokwa’t baboy, chicken empanada and macaroons. After breakfast, the culinary tour showcased the making of buco pie and the empanada.

CHICKEN PIE RECIPE

-Igisa bawang, sibuyas, salt
-Ihalo ang potato, carrots, bellpepper, flaked chicken
-Para sa dough:paghaluin ang water, salt, flour, lard


BUCO PIE RECIPE


















-Mix water, salt, flour, lard
-Add buco meat to the crust (about 1.5 kgs buco meat)
-Add mixture of egg and sugar
-Add dough top, bake for 1 hour


By 10 AM we were in San Pablo's famous Kusina Salud. We scoured the area, with its numerous trees, an aviary and a creek running alongside the property.























































As this is a culinary tour, Chef Paul of Kusina Salud teaches the group the recipe for Kusina Salud's Paco Salad.








PACO SALAD RECIPE: (petalhead fern), a wild organic fern
-Wash fern
-Add red onions, tomato,Bagoong balayan
-Add grated cheese
-Grate salted egg over the pako
-Add roasted garlic, roasted peanuts
-Spread the dressing over the greens: bagoong balayan, mustard, mayo
-Top with calamansi


Menu for lunch:


chicken kulawo













laing con lechon















lumpia ubod















adobo antigo















These were served with organic brown rice and pandan iced tea. Dessert was turon with langka.













Over lunch, what else do we talk about but more food? Quezon is famous for its Lucban Longganisa, and a local teaches us how to cook it properly.


How to Cook Longganisa

-blanch with water
-hayaang matuyo ang tubig
-butasan ang casing
-mantika ng longganisa will cook itself
-tustado ang casing ng longganisa
-hayuin ,
-magsangag ng kanin sa mantika
-lagyan ng itlog at suka as sawsawan


Tomorrow we talk about higote, tamales, and a boodlefest dinner ala Andrew Zimmern!

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Kulinarya Tagala Part 1 of 4 : Culinary Tour of Quezon and Laguna


The Kulinarya Tagala Invite:

Quezon Province is well-known for its harvest festival, Pahiyas and their native delicacies such as the native sausage Longganizang Lucban and the native noodles Pancit Habhab. The attendees of this tour will get to delight in the following:

A taste of Quezon’s heritage dishes and specialties prepared on-site by the townfolks

Trips to the ancestral houses that witnessed and stood up to a number of historical events; and the indigenous country home of one of the Philippines’ renowned fashion designers, Patis Tesoro

A visit to pottery artist Ugu Bigyan’s workshop, where meals in this cluster of quaint huts, connected by brick paths, and surrounded by a lush garden are served on his beautiful creations of ceramic plates and bowls

Tour of a Lambanog (coconut wine) distillery and an experience of the traditional Tagayan Ritual



Day 1
SAN PABLO CITY: BREAKFAST w/Buko Pie Demo at El Mare
KUSINA SALUD: Lunch with Pako Salad Demo
SARIAYA, Quezon: Ancestral House Visit w/Food Tasting of Higote / Perijil / Tamales
TAYABAS, Quezon: Check-in at Graceland Estates and Country Club,
Dinner at Kamayan sa Palaisdaan
TAGAYAN RITUAL at Graceland’s Lagoon area

Day 2
Pahiyas Breakfast at MEMPHIS GARDEN
Check-out from hotel, 9AM
Distillery tour at MALLARI'S (original distillers of Lambanog)
TIAONG, QUEZON: Ugo’s Pottery, Buffet Lunch with KULAWO Demo, Souvenir shopping
Departure for Manila, 2:30 PM

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Off to Beijing..but tomorrow is a Kulinarya Experience!



Today I get my e-ticket to Beijing. It is my first time in mainland China, and it is going to be autumn transitioning to winter when we get there next week. That means bringing out the musty, dusty winter clothes and updating the look. The last time I donned these clothes were in 2007, at zero to 4 degrees Celsius, with snow in Dallas, Texas and the chilly winds of Vancouver. I was more excited about the clothes than the trip, only because we don't have autumn or winter here in the Philippines. This time I wanted to personalize my look. Fashion is fun, and dressing up in winter clothes is almost like becoming a different person.





The fall/winter look from www.whowhatwear.com gave a lot of inspiration, and several choices to customize your look. But I was drawn to the casual looks of Sienna Miller, Kate Moss and Katie Holmes. Of course, I have always been drawn to the simple, not over the top look. That being said, these style icons are lean and gorgeous, so there is a bit of trick required in selecting the garments for me. Basta, I'll buy whatever calls out to me. I'll know what it is.




Dry cleaning costs a fortune. The bill for my Moto jacket and 2 coats cost me 700. This Topshop biker jacket I got from Topshop is P3595, plus the striped red scarf 995, skinny jeans P3095 (ok this is optional especially since I am not skinny- haha), Hush Puppies winter aerosoles water-resistant boots P3200. I decided to get the shoes because it is free-zing cold, ranging from -2degrees Celsius to -6. The shoes should be fit for a walking marathon- we are, after all checking out the Forbidden City and the Great Wall of China.




In the meantime, I'm off tomorrow for a 2-day Kulinarya Experience, a food trip from Laguna to Quezon.